EAT/DRINK

MILLET

Our Food Correspondent, and a winner and judge of Zimbabwe’s Battle Of The Chefs, explores the myriad benefits of magical millets

I’m a chef who’s passionate about Zimbabwe’s traditional foods and ingredients, and I have a special place in my heart for millets: small-grain, dry-land cereals such as pearl, proso, foxtail, brown top, finger, guinea millet, black and white fonio, sorghum, teff and jobs tears. I love the diversity of these small grains, their diversity in taste, texture and usage. They can be ingredients in anything from bread to beer, and in African culture millets are the only grain that can be used to perform rain-calling, or mukwerera, to appease the ancestors.

This year has been the UN’s International Year of the Millets, raising awareness of their nutritional and health benefits, and highlighting their sustainability for cultivation under adverse and changing climatic conditions. There has been a recent push for Zimbabwean farmers to once again grow indigenous small grains such as finger millet, pearl millet, svoboda and sorghum. As we witness the effects of climate change and rising food insecurity, encouraging the growth of small grains is a no-brainer: millets are drought- flood- and pest-resistant and need no fertilisers to flourish.

On my last trip to Manicaland province I learnt more about the special small grains which form a significant part of our culture, diet and cuisine. These are some of my favourites.

SLIDE TO VIEW →

1 // FINGER MILLET
(zviyo/uphoko)

As the name suggests, the plant head looks like a pair of fingers on a hand. When cooked as sadza (a thick porridge eaten with a variety of stews and vegetables) it has a smooth and soft texture; sometimes the brown grains are referred to as “chocolate sadza” due to their dark colour, but it tastes nothing like the confectionery. However, you can cook finger millet in a syrup made from hacha, an indigenous fruit, to make sweet, truffle-like balls called zvambwa. Finger millet is thought to cure ailments such as high blood pressure, and a bowl of finger millet porridge is perfect if you’re feeling under the weather.

2 // PEAL MILLET
(mhunga/inyouti)

Shaped like pearls, these millet grains can be pale yellow, white, brown, grey, slate blue or purple. The smell that comes from these millets when they are roasted is divine, and they are definitely my favourite. Pearl millet can be used to make sadza, honjoriro (a milk-based drink with baobab powder) and chiwinga (pearl millet flour cooked in organic honey).


3 // SVOBODA
(part of the barnyard millet family)

This is a small white grain with a mild nutty flavour and slightly chewy texture that comes from Masvingo province; indeed, the Bikita district is the only area in Zimbabwe where svoboda is prevalent. It holds a special place in my heart because without the foresight of a clever lady, Mai Mukondo, we would have lost it completely. Mai Mukondo had preserved seeds left to her by her grandmother, and their discovery led to the revival of the grain. Like finger millet it is used for sadza and alcoholic beverages, as well as playing a role in ceremonies and rituals.

4 // SORGHUM
(mapfunde/mabele)

Sorghum originated from the Eastern Sudanese savannah and can be white, red or yellow. It’s a great substitute for rice and couscous, can be popped like popcorn and used in both savoury and sweet dishes. I love how many ways you can use it in the kitchen which is why I’ve chosen it for this special recipe that I’ve made for Design//Life (below).

Ingredients

1 cup cooked sorghum
200g carrots, peeled and sliced into rounds
200g baby marrow, cubed
1 small butternut, de-seeded and cubed
200g cherry tomatoes
2 small red onions, quartered
1 cup fresh coriander
½ cup toasted hacha nuts or nuts of your choice (optional)
1 tbsp vegetable spice

For the dressing

11/2 tsp honey
1 tbsp baobab powder
1 garlic clove, grated
¼ cup white vinegar
1/3 cup warm water
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Method

1. Clean the sorghum until the water runs clear then boil for 25-30 minutes or until just cooked. Leave to cool.

2. Place the vegetables in an oven tray, coat with olive oil and season with salt, pepper and vegetable spice and roast for 15-20 minutes at 180C. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

3. For the dressing, put all the ingredients into a sealable jar and shake to combine, or alternatively blitz in a blender till combined.

4. Assemble the salad by adding the vegetables to the cooked sorghum. Add the coriander and drizzle over the dressing.

5. Top with the nuts, and serve.

Words by De Ankarra Chef